Hydrafacials are noninvasive, and they’re gentle enough for most sensitive and acne-prone skin types to handle. Although, “it’s best not to use on any active, open acne,” says board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, M.D., founder of SKINFIVE. “This is often best for a patient with very dehydrated, dull, flaking, or otherwise tired, sallow skin that needs a deeper clean and overall replenishing refresh,” she adds. For example: “Red light supports healthy elasticity in the skin, which plumps and firms, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says celebrity esthetician Shani Darden. “Blue light helps to minimize blemish-causing bacteria, which helps to heal current breakouts and prevent new ones from forming.” Typically, LED technology is used in combination with other treatments or added to classic options: “All of my facials end with 20 minutes under a professional LightStim LED face panel,” says Darden. For example, this type of facial might involve a microcurrent device or vibration therapy tool (like Darden’s famous sculpting wand). “I have microcurrent gloves that I’m obsessed with and use in all of my facials,” Darden adds. “They allow for a more evenly dispersed, deeper treatment. You can literally scoop up the cheek muscles for more lifted and sculpted cheekbones!” And because you have a high concentration of lymph nodes in your face and neck, specific movements can help encourage flow—an esthetician or licensed acupuncturist might use their hands, a gua sha stone, or facial cupping tools (although, professional facial cupping treatments will likely follow an acupuncture session). “Unlike the circulatory system, your lymphatic system doesn’t have its own pump. That’s where lymphatic massage comes in,” adds Rouleau. “For the skin, conditions like puffiness, acne, dryness, dullness, and even skin sensitivity can be improved and even resolved by simple lymphatic stimulation, because it helps the body do what it’s meant to do: heal.” Of course, treating acne takes balance—you don’t want to simply overwhelm the skin with peels and extractions. “The goal is to remove the excess surface sebum, dead skin cells, and buildup in pores while eliminating bacteria without inducing a sebum response,” says Shamban. So the esthetician might throw some hydration into the mix, like a cooling mask to soothe inflammation. And estheticians manage that upkeep in a very meaningful way: Appointments are usually an hour or more, so the expert can really spend time with your skin and address any concerns or goals you have. “Not only do [facials] clean out the pores and balance the skin, but your esthetician will also talk to you about how to care for your skin at home and what foods to avoid if you are having acne,” says Rouleau. Plus, they treat a vast range of skin types every single day, so estheticians have a repertoire of knowledge that can help you along your skin care journey. “Getting professional skin care advice early will give you good habits for a lifetime,” Rouleau adds. Of course, like nutrition and fitness, it’s also up to you to put in the work. After all, you can’t completely ignore your diet and workout regimen at home and expect any miraculous changes from your dietitian or trainer. Same with skin care: “If you’re not using the right products for your skin consistently, the results of a facial won’t last as long,” says Darden. A monthly cadence is also great for people with specific skin concerns—like acne, scarring, dryness, etc.—as you’re able to regularly check in with your esthetician and discuss results. ‘Your esthetician will also be able to analyze your skin to determine the perfect routine for your skin, and monthly facials are a great way to see what’s working and what isn’t," adds Darden. If that time frame doesn’t seem realistic for your budget or schedule, experts recommend getting a facial whenever the seasons change—so two to four times a year. And at the end of the day, the right esthetician for you will work with you on an individual schedule and honor any constraints you may have: “A good esthetician should be able to curate your home care routine around how often you can or want to come in for a facial and still help you achieve your skin care goals,” says Rouleau. If you do have active breakouts, your esthetician might also go light on the massage work or skip it entirely: “This step might be omitted for those who are dealing with severe breakouts, since it may be too much stimulation (skipping this would also allow the esthetician to spend more time on extractions),” notes Rouleau. That said, lymphatic facials (which encourage flow) are especially helpful, as are firming facials that help stimulate the muscles with sculpting tools. “The vibrations also boost circulation to increase the skin’s oxygen uptake, resulting in more glowing, youthful skin,” notes Darden. Additionally, hydrafacials can also work here since you’re infusing the pores with antioxidant-rich serums—plus, hydrated skin appears much brighter.
