See, actives are such an integral part of product formulation; without them, it’s hard to fully understand how your products are working, or whether they are working at all. However, it gets a bit fuzzy when we talk about them within the context of beauty—because there’s the stricter FDA-regulated term “active ingredients,” and there’s the looser, less involved colloquial way that it’s used (or when you see people use it in beauty stories or marketing). The easiest visualization I can offer is your sunscreen: Go to the back of the label and you’ll see a box titled “active ingredient” with UV-blocking ingredients, such as zinc oxide, as well as the percentage they are formulated at. That’s a perfect example of an FDA-cleared active ingredient. Within this context, perhaps the easiest way to explain active ingredients is by example. Let’s say you’ve been developing dark spots recently, and you decide it’s time to invest in a dark spot corrector. The “actives” in said product will be whatever is intended to lighten and treat those marks. You may find a mask infused with alpha-hydroxy acids to slough off the stained skin. You may find a serum with vitamin C to help brighten tone and fight free radicals. You may also look into a retinol night cream, which will encourage cell renewal and turnover. All of these things have actives that target spots but do so in several ways. Another example: If you have acne or are prone to breakouts, you may look for something that helps clear up blemishes. The actives in these products will either encourage exfoliation, tend to inflammation, control oil production, or target the acne-causing bacteria on the skin. And again, you can find a variety of ingredients and products to these: You may find a face wash that has salicylic acid to break down the oil on the skin. You may, again, opt for a night product with retinol (a gold standard ingredient for a reason). Or you may look for soothing botanicals to focus on the skin’s inflammation. The most potent, of course, are prescriptions to be given by a dermatologist. These—like retinols, azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and others—are formulated at such percentages that they should be monitored by professionals and given to those who need them. If you feel your skin concern warrants a derm’s visit, you’ll most likely be given one. Essentially: When you’re dealing with OTC products, what to look for is entirely up to you, your preferences, and cost limitations. If you can only afford options at your drugstore? Don’t worry, there are plenty of good choices that will help your skin (Alba Botanicals and Burt’s Bees are two favorites.) Or if you’d like to spend more, you can look to department stores or retailers like Sephora or Credo for additional options—these more expensive options may have stronger actives or simply more actives in the formula. There are preservatives—in the natural space, look for phenoxyethanol, sea salt, and citric acid, among others—which keep the formula free of mold and bacteria for long-term use. They can also help stabilize the product so you can keep it around for more than its typical shelf life. Or there are ingredients that help improve absorption, like propanediol, which helps deliver the actives and enhances the sensorial experience. Finally, there are the more recognizable options that serve as your bases—things like botanical oils, shea butter, aloe, and so on—so you have a well-rounded product.
