We’re back at it again with another buzzy skin care tool made DIY-friendly (or so it seems). This time we’re breaking down the benefits of dermarolling and what you need to know about doing it at home, dermarolling for hair growth, who should avoid it, and the full how-to. Let’s dive in. Many skin care experts like aestheticians and dermatologists, for example, have microneedling tools in-office should their clients want the service, but they don’t often have the at-home-style dermarollers. While traditional microneedling has been used commercially since the ’90s, at-home dermarollers have become increasingly popular over the past few years, especially with the rise of beauty TikTok. These tiny needles have been sought after for their ability to rejuvenate the skin and ease the appearance of scarring, stretch marks, alopecia, and more. But are you really going to get those dramatic results from a DIY tool? More on that in a bit. But first, let’s chat about the benefits. Translation? When your skin kicks into recovery mode, even if it’s from a microtrauma, your collagen and elastin production are triggered, thus contributing to tighter, more supple facial skin. This, in turn, may result in the easing of fine lines and wrinkles, Henry notes. When used in conjunction with healthy skin aging products like face creams, studies have demonstrated the power microneedling has to essentially supercharge the effects of a topical product1—which can be both good and bad (more on that to come). For hair growth purposes, dermarolling can also be used along with hair growth serums to boost their efficacy—more on scalp treatment to follow. It’s important to note that professionals most often recommend skipping any active breakouts when dermarolling, as opening the pimple or penetrating the cyst can lead to pain, infection, and redness. And if you don’t, you may risk damaging your skin, triggering infection, etc. Plus, “The tools used by dermatologists are often electric-operated and can penetrate deeper, stimulating more robust rejuvenation,” Henry says. We’d be remiss to not mention the fact that there are plenty of other at-home steps you can take to tend to light acne scars and hyperpigmentation, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and help your products penetrate deeper into the skin, sans tiny rolling needles. Also, deeper acne scars, often referred to as “ice pick,” or “indented,” scars, are extremely difficult to treat at home, even with a dermaroller, as the depth of professional needles generally leads to the best results—and it often takes more than one session. However, if you still want to experiment with dermarolling and give the DIY method your best shot before investing in a professional microneedling treatment, that’s fair—but still, proceed with caution. Avoid any irritating cleansers—stay away from chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs, benzoyl peroxide, and harsh physical scrubs before you use your dermaroller. “Finally, you can pat the tool dry using a clean washcloth. Repeat this same step once you finish working on the skin,” she finishes. This will ensure the tool is free of bacteria and any buildup. If it’s your first few times dermarolling, go over each area of the face just once. “Dermarollers can be applied two to four times to the same area depending on one’s sensitivity,” Henry says—but you’ll want to start out slow and see what your skin can tolerate. “Thicker areas of the face can benefit from slightly higher frequencies of dermarolling, while the thinner more sensitive areas can become more easily irritated,” Henry notes. So stick to a once-over on areas like the forehead and chin. For the cheeks, you may be able to go over the area twice. A few ingredients to add to your post-dermaroller routine include: Stick with a gentle, simple routine for at least a few days, or a week if you have sensitive skin. “The needles work to create microchannels on the scalp that help to increase blood flow to the hair follicle and release growth factors,” Reavey says. “It’s an amazing tool to implement for accelerated hair growth rates,” she continues. Microneedling and dermarolling on the scalp help to increase the absorption and penetration of treatments within the skin and prevent thinning and balding caused by temporary hair loss, Reavey says. Your scalp may be a bit less sensitive than your face, too. “The skin is a bit thicker and has a greater abundance of sebaceous glands, which produce sebum to protect your hair,” Reavey explains. If you’re going to use a dermaroller on your scalp, be sure to do so on freshly cleansed hair and follow up with a hydrating scalp serum—may we suggest the Act+Acre Dermaroller Growth System Set that comes with both? You can also visit a trichologist or dermatologist for microneedling on the scalp if you’d rather not go through the process at home. As you now know, circulation is key when it comes to triggering increased growth and both preventing and treating hair loss—and dermarolling on the scalp is just one way to do so. You can also practice less invasive methods such as scalp massage, scalp and hair oiling, and consider hair growth serums and supplements if dermarolling isn’t for you. Deeply cleanse your facial hair before, as it easily holds on to bacteria, oils, etc. You may need to go over the area more than once, as facial hair can interfere with needle penetration. Hydrate the skin afterward, even on areas with facial hair. Plus, the professional tools used often have adjustable needle lengths, meaning you can use shorter needles on areas with thin skin (like the nose, chin, forehead, etc.) and longer ones on thicker areas like the cheeks. This helps to ensure you’re never penetrating too deeply. And moreover, your dermatologist or aesthetician will let you know if you’re a good candidate for this procedure—as microneedling is not right for everyone. Those with active acne, rosacea, psoriasis, or other inflammatory skin conditions may actually be better off without it—professional-grade treatment or not. And to that end, plenty of people praise dermarolling because it can cause products to penetrate deeper into the skin. While this is great for those hydrating humectants like hyaluronic acid and aloe vera, it’s not entirely necessary when it comes to strong actives like retinoids. As your derm will tell you—these prescription-grade products and even some OTC retinols and exfoliants generally penetrate the skin just fine on their own. And as long as you clear out dead skin cells via exfoliation, the products will get into the skin as need be. Thus, why you don’t need dermarolling to make sure your skin care “works”—high-quality products used in a dedicated routine will do that on their own. So if you want to use dermarolling to ease acne scars, encourage hair growth, or contribute to skin longevity—do it, but with caution. However, if you’re just doing it to do it, without proper technique and any significant reason, you may want to ask yourself if you’re more motivated by the benefits or the fact that it’s trending (and yes, we’ve all been there).
