Just as any other organ dysfunction would have implications for your overall health, the skin isn’t any different. And while we’ve commercialized products, devices, and treatments—skin care starts with barrier care. “This layer is made up of exfoliating skin cells that turn over every 28 days. This skin layer has channels that allow water to be absorbed and evaporated and has hydrating ingredients like ceramides, free fatty acid, and linoleic acid, to maintain a healthy skin barrier that protects us from external pollution, sun damage, and pathogens like bacteria, yeast, and viruses,” she adds. Now you know the very basic function of the skin barrier. Up next, a quick breakdown of each part of the stratum corneum in a bit more detail. “It protects us from mechanical injury, low humidity, cold, heat, sun, wind, chemical exposure, bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other pathogens,” board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., said about the barrier and added that “a healthy barrier is critical to normal skin function.” And this isn’t just skin deep—research has demonstrated a link between skin dysfunction and various health conditions caused by chronic inflammation. In one study, researchers connected the use of barrier repair moisturizers with reduced pro-inflammatory cytokines in the blood, highlighting the importance of the skin’s protective role in our overall health: Namely, that poor barrier function is linked to inflammation that can trigger other health concerns. Not only that, but it’s literally what we think of when we think of us, our skin. When you look in the mirror, you’re looking at your skin barrier. It’s quite literally the most recognizable part of you. “The most common is over-stripping the skin of its natural oils,” Graf says. “This can be done by washing your face too much and over-exfoliating the skin,” she adds. While retinol, AHAs, and BHAs have wonderful benefits, they should be used in moderation (as with skin cycling). Plus, Graf says these actives should be used in conjunction with a barrier-supporting routine. Translation: Use one active product, not five. If you’re looking to exfoliate, use one exfoliating serum or physical wash, not both—you get the idea. How often you should exfoliate will depend on your skin type, goals, and any current skin conditions you’re dealing with. Here’s more on proper exfoliating cadence if you want to dive deeper. “Gut inflammation eventually can become systemic inflammation. And that, along with oxidative stress, blood sugar imbalances, and other problems4, can all show up on your skin—especially if you are genetically predisposed to these conditions,” he adds. But what foods are the most triggering? “The simple sugars, when digested, cause rapid insulin spikes that result in the downstream effect of inflammation, which, in turn, leads to skin barrier breakdown,” board-certified dermatologist Rachel Westbay, M.D., FAAD, of Marmur Medical tells mbg. Even acne, the most common skin condition, can be improved when focusing on gut health. “One study found a probiotic supplement improved acne in 80% of the 300 participants3. Among their benefits, probiotics can help modulate immunity and inflammation, reducing acne in the process,” Pedre said. What’s more, one study noted by the American Academy of Dermatology reported that women who drank two or more glasses of skim milk a day were 44% more likely to have breakouts5. Another study noted on the AAD demonstrated that a low-glycemic index diet may result in fewer pimples. Not sure which foods are considered high on the glycemic index? Check out this story. “Lacking nutrients like omega-3 fatty acids can be an issue, as well,” Westbay says. “Derivatives of omega-3 fatty acids are thought to influence the skin barrier by acting as transcription factors that increase the synthesis of filaggrin, an integral protein that brings together other structural proteins in the outermost skin cells to actually form the skin barrier,” she adds. What’s more, chronic stress can lead to an imbalanced microbiome in which the bacteria responsible for acne can flourish. And to top it all off, your skin may have a harder time dealing with existing acne and scarring when you’re really stressed. One study on stress and wound healing found that stress can actually slow down healing7, which can make healing from breakouts even more difficult. You can repair the skin from things like sunburns, but you can never fully repair sun damage. This is why it’s so essential to prioritize UV protection via face and body sunscreen. Even if it’s cloudy, you should still be wearing sunscreen daily both to prevent UV damage and encourage healthy skin aging. In part, this is because those with eczema and rosacea already have dry skin to begin with due to a natural lack of ceramides in the skin. This means they’re just a bit closer to a compromised barrier without being exposed to any other triggers. This is why it is so important for those with eczema and rosacea to visit a dermatologist for assistance. If you have pre-sensitive skin and use harsh topical products without knowing, get sunburned, etc., the reaction will be much more severe and difficult to repair. When that shield is weakened, it isn’t as able to perform this role, allowing irritants to penetrate the skin and cause major and chronic disruptions in the form of rashes, inflammation, texture changes, burning, and so on. However, if your skin is not typically sensitive but has been as of late, then you might have a compromised skin barrier at the moment. Don’t worry—you can repair it. More on that next. Determine what factors are directly contributing to your damaged barrier right now and eliminate them, or manage them to the best of your ability. We have a lengthy list of your best-bet ingredients for topical barrier repair in a bit, but here’s a quick list of what to avoid, as that’s just as important: Skin supplements are one easy way to essentially ingest skin care—think ceramides, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, etc. If you’re on the hunt, this guide will help you choose the best one for your skin and provide expert-approved picks. Here’s a quick estimate as board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., FAAD, once explained: For a severely damaged barrier, as is with a sunburn, it will take a minimum of a few days to repair the skin barrier. However, for mild damage, as occurs with over-exfoliation or increased dryness, you might even be able to repair the barrier in just a few hours—if you take the right steps like those above.
Fragrance (again, this is important) Chemical exfoliants like AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs Retinol in any form Physical scrubs Astringent toner Facials Microneedling Dermaplaning Dermarolling UV exposure (even protected) Chlorine or salt water
